Ptarmigan Lake Hike, August 28, 2009 – Colorado
August 30th, 2009 by admin
This is a new record for me. Two hikes in two weeks. People who live here often hike every possible day, but it’s taken me a while to overcome the following things:
- 1) No bathrooms on the trail
2) No instant way to stop and go home
3) Intermittent feelings of breathlessness, heart pounding, dizziness, and muscle failure
Am I the only person willing to admit that even on a beautiful hike I sometimes don’t want to keep going, I think I’m going to pass out or I wonder why I agreed to go?
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The amazing thing is that so far I have enjoyed hiking in Colorado and have not once regretted going when all was said and done.
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The Ptarmigan Lake hike is both easy and gorgeous. So far it is the most beautiful hike I’ve done in Colorado, though I am hardly a veteran hiker.
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For me, hiking in the Rockies or the Southwest can’t be beat because I like the dry air and distinct lack of mosquitoes. You just have to carry a lot more water. You will rarely be drenched in sweat or humid air, and if you do get wet, you dry out in minutes. Also, there is no mud to speak of.
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Here are the photos:

The trailhead is quite fancy compared to some of the others. It has a small paved parking lot and an outhouse, both of which are in excellent condition. It is also not hard to find. Buena Vista is a one-stoplight town as of today. When you at the cross-section of Highway 24 and Main Street (aka County Road 306 on the west side of Hwy 24), the trailhead is clearly marked by a brown and tan Forest Service sign 13.3 miles on the left side of the road.

The first section of the trail is mostly wooded. The Spruce pines are fragrant and the ascent is gradual for the most part.

Along the way, there are areas where you can see out over a valley.

Fellow hikers and dog-lovers stopped to chat with us or pet the dogs. Our small dogs are always a curiosity because toy breeds are an anomaly on the trails. The typical Colorado hiking dog is a Lab, Retriever, Heeler, Border Collie or some mix thereof.

Although Willie is the skittish one, she is a sucker for attention, as you can see with this hiker we met on the trail.

Once you come out of the wooded part of the hike, the landscape opens up into meadows with small lakes and ponds.

Before I go on, I should say that Ptarmigan is pronounced with a silent “p”, so it sounds like “tarmigan”. This is one of those hikes that is considered a delight to photographers. It is known for its wildflowers and colorful ground foliage, as well as the stunning lake and mountain views.

The open meadows dotted with spruce, ground firs and low lying foliage smelled and looked amazing. The photos can only convey some visual sense of the experience.

In a few areas the trail led us through thickets of bright meadow bushes.

Just when we were starting to wonder where the lake was, we met a couple ladies coming down the trail who informed us the lake was just beyond the two knolls ahead of us.

Sure enough we went from the meadow scene to a full-on alpine lake. The water was clear and pristine. I was fully enjoying myself. Although I still stopped for breaks, I only whined once to Ron near the top when I was getting winded: “Do I like to hike?” He ignored me.

We decided to sit on the rocks by the lake. As soon as Ron pulled out the bag of beef jerky, Willie and Halle were waiting. Russell was off chasing alpine prey.


Willie rarely stands still or isn’t pulling on her lead so I quickly snapped this photo of her. We were above treeline, but not to the point where the ground was barren of plant matter.




Russell came back from one of her romps when I started to crack open the pistachios.

I got this picture by baiting them with the nuts.

We continued to walk around the lake. The dogs were in heaven.

It was a happy moment for us too.

A few more photos of the lake:


Finally we gathered our four-footed troop and headed down the mountain. Here a view of one of the little lakes on the way down.

Willie and Russell ran through this little brook both times.

I had to carry Halle over the water on the way up, but she too ran through it going down.

Even Halle couldn’t resist this view.

I took more notice of details as we descended, especially the flora.

Ron took this photo because I gave up trying to get the right angle. It was also Ron who alerted me to the tree below so that I would take note of its character.


I’ve mentioned our dogs chasing pikas before. I never knew what a pika was until I started hiking in Colorado, which is understandable since the rock-dwelling American pika (Ochotona princeps) is primarily found at high elevations throughout the western mountains of North America.
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The one in the photo below looks like a big fat mouse to me, but in fact, they are not rodents at all. They are lagomorphs. The order “Lagomorpha” also includes rabbits, hares, and guinea pigs.

Within the Lagomorpha order, pikas comprise the family “Ochotonidae”, pronounced ′äk·ə′tän·ə′dē. The little guy above was about 7 inches long, had the defining egg-shaped body, prominent thin round ears, small high-set eyes, and no visible tail. Pikas are herbivores, so they only eat plants, mostly hay, I believe.
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We’ve seen and heard pikas while hiking in mountain meadows, rock fields, and talus.
- Definition of “talus” from ucjeps.berkeley.edu/interchange/JM_glossary.html: “Relatively stable, sloping accumulation of large rock fragments, often at a cliff base. (see scree).”
Elsewhere in North America, the collared pika (Ochotona collaris) can be found in the mountains of Alaska and the Yukon. I wonder if the pika in the picture is actually a “collared” pika as it seems to have a distinct collar.
- Reference: Much of the info on pikas in this post is from: www.answers.com/topic/ochotonidae-vertebrate-zoology

And then there were the raspberries. I somehow missed them on the way up. On the way down, Ron and I picked only a few ripe ones and ate them. They were perfect, exactly as one would imagine God’s fruit to be.

Though they were tiny compared to the raspberries from the grocery store, each little wild berry was divine.

I thought it would be fun to get a picture of Halle in a hollow tree stump, but she hated it and I got yelled at because Ron said Halle cut herself escaping. He told me where the blood was on the jagged wood from where she leapt before I could grab her. I couldn’t believe it, but there it was: a crimson smear on the wood edges and a distinct droplet just below. I went from silly to upset in a second.
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I was sullen in my guilt and agitation while Ron examined the blood and announced that it wasn’t blood after all. It was sap that had hardened into a maroon resin that looked exactly like blood. Phew.
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So we went merrily on our way: Ron with Willie, and I with the two terriers.

Since Halle ended up being fine in the tree stump incident, I decided it would be even more entertaining to put Willie in the next hollow stump.

This was the shot I was looking for. Willie was a better subject than Halle, though not much more willing. I was laughing, but Ron didn’t think it was funny even though he later agreed the photo was pretty good.

No more shenanigans, just a few more photos of moss, flowers and foliage.


We ended where we began, at the bridge just yards from the trailhead parking lot.


The dogs waited for me while I got a shot of the creek from the bridge.

Finally we arrived at the Suburban, which I often refer to as “the mobile dog-palace”.

Another hike ended with the two terriers fast asleep and Willie alert by the window.

Her motto is: “It’s not over until it’s over”. Isn’t that the truth.
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